Invités par les voisins à boire un café et à voir leur bateau. Incroyable ce couple. Lui était architecte navale. Il a conçu son bateau, a fait construire la coque et l’a tout aménagé il y a 20 ans. Ils ont navigué partout et par tous les temps. Ils ont écrit trois livres de récit de leur voyage. Mais les livres sont en hollandais. Même sans comprendre le texte les photos parlent d’elles-mêmes. Des vagues comme … des immeubles, le bateau dans les glaces en Antarctique ou à Svalbard, ils ont passé le Cap Horne, le Cap de Bonne Espérance et sont allés dans le quarantièmes rugissants. Une seule fois ils ont pensé que c’était à la limite par force 13. Mon Dieu, j’en blêmis rien que d’y penser. Nous sommes béats d’admiration. Ils viennent ensuite voir Maja et la trouve bien sympathique.
Puis nous enfourchons nos vélos et allons à un endroit appelé Keen of Hamar, près d’ici. C’est un désert rocailleux et sec. Il y pousse de toutes petites fleurs.
Nous rentrons, déjeunons (dedans, il fait froid) et je pars à l’hôtel. Je demande poliment le code et la permission d’utiliser internet dans la salle de restaurant. J’aurais pris un café ; la dragonne me répond que non, l’hôtel est fermé jusqu’à 18 h. Grrr … Mais elle me donne la permission de m’assoir dans la réception. Je travaille avec le blog et rentre à 16 h au bateau. Jens charge les vélos et nous sommes prêts à partir. Il est 16 h 15. Adieux aux voisins hollandais. Nous allons vers le port de Cullivoe sur l’ile de Yell cela nous rapproche des Iles Féroe. Peu de vent et vagues sur le côté, et ça roule bien. Mais c’est juste une petite traversée de deux heures. Nous avons le courant avec nous et allons à 6-7 nœuds au lieu de 5. Nous arrivons à 18 h 30 à Collivoe, port assez sinistre et désert. Enfin pour une nuit, c’est bien assez bon. Le vent a forcé juste quand on arrivait. Nous nous mettons à un grand quai, juste en dessous d’une fabrique de glace (pas crème glacée !) qui fait du bruit. Si tout va bien nous pensons partir demain matin tôt pour les Iles Féroe, 170 miles nautiques vers le nord-ouest, à peu près 35 heures. Nous prenons notre ankerdram, un Schwepps, et des chips de carottes, betteraves et navet. Rigolo et bon.
Petite promenade, pas un chat mais beaucoup de moutons, maisons vides, une petite église et la boutique, qui est présentée dans le guide comme très bien, est fermée. Diner dedans, il pleut.
Et nous sommes prêts. Pourvu qu’on dorme bien.
Avant de quitter les Shetland je veux remercier tous les gens sympathiques que nous y avons rencontrés : Louise qui m’a laissé photographier tant de beaux modèles de tricots dans sa boutique The Spiders Web à Lerwick (www.shetland-handknits.co-uk ou www.shetland-knitwear.com), Eddy (Edward) de l’Association des Fishers (et merci pour le sassermaet et le vin qui étaient très bons), Josie et Hazel de Symbister sur Whalsay, leur beau jardin et leur bateau, le couple d’Out Skerries qui nous a ouvert son jardin, les enfants qui nous ont donné des poissons et tous les gens qui nous saluaient quand nous faisions du vélo. De belles iles, une histoire intéressante et des habitants ouverts. Beaucoup de bons souvenirs.
Invited by the neighbors to have a coffee and see their boat. Amazing this couple. He was a naval architect. He designed his boat, built the hull and had it all laid out 20 years ago. They sailed everywhere and in all kinds of weathers. They wrote three books about their journey. But the books are in Dutch. Even without understanding the text, the pictures speak for themselves. Waves as high as building, the boat in the ice in Antarctica or in Svalbard, they passed Cape Horn, Cape of Good Hope and went into the roaring forties. Once they thought that was the end in force 13. My God, I just don’t want to think about it. We are full of admiration. They then come to see Maja and said that she is very nice.
Then we mount our bikes and go to a place called Keen of Hamar, near here. It is a rocky desert and dry. The only flowers groing there are very small.
We go back to the boat, have lunch (inside, it's cold) and I go to the hotel. I politely request the code and permission to use the internet in the restaurant. The lady says no, the hotel is closed until 18 pm Grrr ... But she gives me permission to sit down in the reception. I work with the blog and go back to the boat at 4:00 pm. Jens loads the bikes and we are ready to go. It is 4:15 pm. We say bye bye to our Dutch neighbors. We are going to the harbour of Cullivoe on the island of Yell, it brings us closer to the Faroe Islands. Little wind and waves on the side, we are rolling a bit but it is ok and this is just a short crossing of two hours. We have the current with us and go to 6-7 knots instead of 5. We reach Cullivoe at 6:30 pm, an harbour which looks deserted and a little bit sinister. But for one night it is good enough. The wind has forced just when we arrive. We tie the boat to a big pier, just below an ice factory (no ice cream!) that makes noise. If all goes well we expect to leave tomorrow morning early to the Faroe Islands, 170 nautical miles north-west, about 35 hours. We take our ankerdram, a Schweppes, and chips of carrots, beets and turnips. Funny and good.
We go foa a walk, see nobody but a lot of sheep, empty houses, a small church; the shop, which is presented in the guide as a cosy shop, is closed. We eat dinner inside, it is raining.
And we are ready. I hope we are going to sleep well.
Before leaving the Shetland I want to thank all the friendly people we've met: Louise who let me take so many pictures of beautiful kniting patterns in her shop in Lerwick, The Spiders Web (www.shetland handknits.co-or-uk or www.shetland-knitwear.com), Eddy (Edward) of the Association of Fishers (and thanks for the sassermaet and wine, they were very good), Josie and Hazel in Symbister on Whalsay, their garden and their boat, the Out Skerries couple who opened their garden, the children who gave us fish and all the people who greeted us when we were cycling. Beautiful islands, an interesting history and an open people. Many good memories.
Then we mount our bikes and go to a place called Keen of Hamar, near here. It is a rocky desert and dry. The only flowers groing there are very small.
We go back to the boat, have lunch (inside, it's cold) and I go to the hotel. I politely request the code and permission to use the internet in the restaurant. The lady says no, the hotel is closed until 18 pm Grrr ... But she gives me permission to sit down in the reception. I work with the blog and go back to the boat at 4:00 pm. Jens loads the bikes and we are ready to go. It is 4:15 pm. We say bye bye to our Dutch neighbors. We are going to the harbour of Cullivoe on the island of Yell, it brings us closer to the Faroe Islands. Little wind and waves on the side, we are rolling a bit but it is ok and this is just a short crossing of two hours. We have the current with us and go to 6-7 knots instead of 5. We reach Cullivoe at 6:30 pm, an harbour which looks deserted and a little bit sinister. But for one night it is good enough. The wind has forced just when we arrive. We tie the boat to a big pier, just below an ice factory (no ice cream!) that makes noise. If all goes well we expect to leave tomorrow morning early to the Faroe Islands, 170 nautical miles north-west, about 35 hours. We take our ankerdram, a Schweppes, and chips of carrots, beets and turnips. Funny and good.
We go foa a walk, see nobody but a lot of sheep, empty houses, a small church; the shop, which is presented in the guide as a cosy shop, is closed. We eat dinner inside, it is raining.
And we are ready. I hope we are going to sleep well.
Before leaving the Shetland I want to thank all the friendly people we've met: Louise who let me take so many pictures of beautiful kniting patterns in her shop in Lerwick, The Spiders Web (www.shetland handknits.co-or-uk or www.shetland-knitwear.com), Eddy (Edward) of the Association of Fishers (and thanks for the sassermaet and wine, they were very good), Josie and Hazel in Symbister on Whalsay, their garden and their boat, the Out Skerries couple who opened their garden, the children who gave us fish and all the people who greeted us when we were cycling. Beautiful islands, an interesting history and an open people. Many good memories.
Keen of Hamar
Cullivoe
Du bon usage d'un vieux bateau (Yell)
Good use of an old boat (Yell)
Motif de tricot, Shetland
Kniting pattern, Shetland
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